1095 Stainless Steel

How Good is 1095 Steel?

1095 Stainless Steel

Steel comes in a variety of forms. This is because steel needs to serve a variety of functions. It is alloyed with many different kinds of metals for a myriad of different purposes. The different types of metals used in the creation of steel gives it different properties, which is why there are different kinds of steel available. Common to all types of steel is carbon, which can be found in varying quantities, depending upon the intended use of the steel being processed.

Properties of 1095 Steel

1095 Steel is a basic form of carbon steel and is most commonly used in the construction of various kinds of knives. It has a carbon content of .95% which serves to harden the steel and reduce the amount of wear that a blade will experience over time. Despite the reduction in wear created by the high presence of carbon, 1095 steel is not as tough as other types of steel due to the lower levels of manganese, which serves to harden the steel. Yet, although manganese hardens steel when used in certain levels, in higher levels it makes for a more brittle blade overall.

1095 is a decent steel that can have varying qualities depending on manufacturing variables (like most steel) but it typically has a Rockwell Hardness Value of around 55 which is a smidge on the soft side.

1095 Steel for Knives

1095 steel, when used in knives, holds a great edge and is very easy to sharpen. However, the properties of this type of steel give it a tendency to easily rust if not oiled and deliberately cared for. These kinds of blades will usually have some kind of coating to combat rusting, but so long as the blade is properly cared for, rust should not be too great a problem for anyone.

Because 1095 steel can be considered more brittle than other types of steel, it is generally good for blades that are not too thin. It is easy to sharpen, but if a blade made with this type of steel doesn’t have a decent amount of thickness behind it, it is liable to break easily. For example, it is not an appropriate grade of steel for tools, folding knives, or sushi knives.

1095 can be heat treated to increase its overall strength, but if 1095 steel gets brittle after that point, there is not much that can be done about it and it may break on you. Though it can be used in tools such as chopping knives, it is not necessarily the most effective choice. It shines, but there are other steels out there which are better formulated to be used in such objects. 1095, though not alloyed with chromium like stainless steel, takes a great polish very easily.

Our Favorite Knife Made with 1095 Steel

TOPS Knives Steel Eagle Delta Class is no slouch when it comes to performance, but it gets top marks for looks!   Its “Rambo-esque” features make it look exceptionally aggressive, and while it is that, it’s also as practical as most knives in its class.  It features a 7.5″ clip point blade with a full tang.  The Acid Rain finish and sawback spine add to the sweet looks, while the toughness of the black and brown layered linen Micarta handle finishes the knife with superb looks and durable toughness.  Lest you think this knife is all bark and no bite (metaphorically speaking of course), you’ll want to take note that it has been tested for over 10 years in a row within the military and special ops communities and has not been found lacking!

Top Knives Steel Eagle

The Steel Eagle Delta Class has been tested for over a decade in the harsh environment of military special ops with excellent results

Check for Latest Pricing : Amazon | BladeHQ 

This Steel Eagle Delta Class series fixed blade has been outfitted with a 7.5″ clip point blade in an Acid Rain finish and brown micarta handle scales.

The Steel Eagle series has been time-tested over 10 continuous years in the field. In every terrain and in all conditions, the Steel Eagle knife has proven its strength, durability, versatility and dependability within the Special Operations Community. This Steel Eagle knife features a full tang clip point blade with a durable acid rain coating and a sawback spine. The handle is made of brown and black layered linen Micarta. Item includes a brown kydex sheath with a belt clip attachment.

How to care for 1095 Steel

To keep your 1095 knife rust free and working for the longest time possible, rinse it off after every use, wipe it clean, and oil it once a week. The oil forms a barrier that prevents moisture from reaching the steel. It also gives your knife a very shiny look.

Good uses for 1095

1095 steel would be perfect for functional show swords, such as those found throughout military ceremonies. It would also function very well in replica swords and blades, as well as daggers. Though other types of steel, especially stainless, would be more useful and efficient for a variety of utensil uses, 1095 is still very useful for a number of dining tools. Other uses for 1095 grade steel include any of the general functions that any kind of knife could perform. It is also a very good metal for blades used in ritual, or religious purposes. It is often used in some types of machetes.


 

Comments

  1. Yeah, the writer of this article is pretty far off base with 1095 steel. It’s one of the oldest blade steels around, and lends itself to a wide range of heat treatment. It can be taken to springy to stone hard. It is cheap, holds an edge and is easily sharpened, and in the hands of a good maker that knows how to do the proper heat treating, it’s an outstanding knife steel not only on fixed blades, but on folders as well. Some of the 1095 steels from Solingen Germany were spectacular. Use it and let it patina, and the upkeep is minimal. Get it wet and stick it in a drawer for months, and it’ll rust. Common sense and minimum care and it’ll outlast the owner. I have a few 1095 folders that are decades old and absolutely fine.

    1. Hey Dave;
      Thanks for the message and thanks for checking out knifeup.com. I re-checked the article on 1095 steel and cross-referenced it with your comments. The only thing I found that you might disagree with is the comment one of our writers made regarding the use of 1095 with folder knives. Otherwise, it looks like you didn’t really disagree with very much, so I’m guessing that we’re not exactly “pretty far off base” as you mentioned. In doing a bit more research I’ve decided not to change that comment since some of the more reputable knives made with 1095 are fixed blades.
      Thanks again for bothering to comment!
      J.

  2. Most all of the knives I own are 1095 steel. It’s my preferred steel. Most are vintage knives that I also use everyday. I live in a part of the US where the humidity is usually high but these old knives do not require that much attention to prevent the bad rust. The best advice I can offer is get a good patina on your blades. That alone will prevent most of your bad rust. (A good patina would be the good rust.)

    Store fixed blade knives with leather sheath outside their sheaths as leather absorbs moisture and breed mold and more. There isn’t much need to lay on a thick film of oil or grease or vasiline on your knife either. Just sharpen your blades, then clean them with a clean cloth and a little mineral oil (3 in One oil with knives not used for food prep) wipe clean and store them wrapped in a cloth, or in plastic ziplock bags if you’re still paranoid. Lol

    Remember, a little mineral oil, wipe clean and a nice patina will pretty much take care of the rest!

    1. I have an original usmc kbar that was taken into battle and then went to me. Love it.

  3. I own an Ontario brand knife. I read I should oil my blade weekly, but what kind of oil is best to prevent my blade from rusting?

    1. What I’d like to know is, if I were to own a knife with 1095 steel and it requires weekly oiling, how do I store this knife w/o creating an oily mess? I have a leather sheath for it but don’t want that saturated with oil either. Thanks for your help.

    2. In many cases, knife owners use a very thin coating of petroleum jelly which can help minimize an “oily” mess.
      J.

  4. It’s an early development in carbon steels, so is not as sophisticated as many newer ones. Nevertheless (me being a Luddite, who LIKES doing things the old way), it is more than adequate for most knife applications that don’t put large shocks or stresses on the blade, and it is relatively cheap to buy. A useage not mentioned here is that it combines very well with a mild steel in Damascus blades, the costruction of which make 1095 effectively much tougher.

    1. But your observations are those of the majority of users. Those who “strip” their 1095 knives as soon as they buy them are making a really silly mistake. The coatings are not going to change the ability of the steel from throwing a spark if hit by hard stone, such as flint or chert. Stripping the coating of a small portion of the spine would, theoretically, cover all bases. Using a stainless steel for scraping a ferro-cerium rod is excellent.

  5. This is the most stupid article I’ve ever seen about 1095. The author doesn’t have a clue.

    1. AS I was reading through it I thought , that’s not right ? and that , he’s miles off the mark about that , and that !

    2. Hey, thanks for your helpful and encouraging comments! The author of this article is long gone and I have never met him. The site is under new ownership as of May 2018, and I’ll review this article and its accuracy and relevancy soon. The knife laws need updating as well. Blessings,
      J.

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